Very often people use the term “septic system” for any/all home or small flow wastewater treatment systems.  So what is the difference and is it important to a home owner or small flow treatment unit to know the difference?  The answer is yes!  Knowing the difference may have an impact on how you use and maintain your system.  It will also help you identify possible problems and better understand the causes and solutions to those problems.

Both types of systems utilize microorganisms (bugs) to break down organic matter (pollutants).  In the most basic terms, the difference is that with “septic systems”, bugs do not utilize oxygen to break down the pollutants.  They live and reproduce is an anaerobic environment (without air).  With ATU’s, the bugs live, eat and reproduce in an aerobic environment (with air).  With ATU’s, air is added to the treatment by some mechanical method.  In septic systems (septic tanks), no air is added to the system.

So what does that difference mean?  Briefly, here are some points to understand about the different systems and how they treat wastewater. 

·       ATU’s generally produce a much better treated wastewater (much fewer pollutants).

·       Septic systems are usually a much slower process than ATU’s.

·       Septic systems have the ability to treat much stronger pollutants, but not very efficiently and they are very slow.

·       While ATU’s are fast and very efficient, they are susceptible to upset and failure.

·       Septic systems always discharge to some type of subsurface disposal area (drain field).

·       ATU’s often discharge to a subsurface disposal area, but can, based on state or local regulations, discharge to the ground surface because of a much cleaner effluent.

Next we will talk about what can go wrong with these systems.

Any questions? 

This article appeared in Small Flows Magazine, Fall/Winter 2009, Volume 9, Number 3.

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Awhile ago, there was a commercial that pleaded with us not to squeeze, well, a certain bathroom tissue.  Since then, we’ve been searching for the     softest bathroom tissue we can find.  We want it quilted, ultra plush, and fluffy.  But while our behinds may appreciate our attention to this feature, environmentalists say that we should learn to wipe with something a little more Earth friendly, according to September 24, 2009, Washington Post article. 

That wonderful, plush toilet paper we love comes at price. U.S. toilet paper is typically made by chopping down lots of old-growth trees, grinding them to pulp, and turning them into the soft stuff. Big toilet-paper makers say they would be happy to produce recycled toilet paper, but their customers just won’t sit for it. 

“At what price [does] softness [come]?” asks Tim Spring, chief executive of Marcal Manufacturing, a New Jersey papermaker that is attempting to persuade its customers to buy recycled paper. “Should I contribute to clear-cutting and deforestation because the big [marketing] machine has told me that softness is important?” 

Spring adds that changing to a recycled toilet paper isn’t like you’re asking people to give up the world—just a little comfort. Toilet paper accounts for   about 5 percent of the U.S. forest-products industry. Not that much, but some argue that even a little bit is too much. And cutting down old trees for the “briefest and most undignified end” needs to be stopped. 

“[Some customers] are quite demanding of products that are soft,” says James Malone, a spokesman for Georgia- Pacific. One three-ply brand brought in more than $144 million in the past year, according to Information Resources, Inc., a marketing research firm.  Greenpeace says it has spent four-and-a-half years working toward making paper recyclable.  “We have campaigned forever,” says Lindsey Allen, a senior    forest campaigner for Greenpeace, adding that it was enough to get Kimberly-Clark to change its ways. “We have a policy that. . .will shift the entire way these tissue companies do business.”

For more information about recyclable toilet paper, go www.greenpeace.org/usa/campaigns/forests/tissueguide for  information about buying environmentallyfriendly brands.

NESC Staff Writer

This article appeared in Small Flows Magazine, Fall/Winter 2009, Volume 9, No. 3

Editor’s Note: The drainfield is one of the most important parts of your septic system.

Maintaining it not only keeps the system functioning properly—which aids in public health—it prevents an expensive repair from damaging your wallet. The average cost of replacing a drainfield can run from $6,000 to more than $12,000. And no one wants a smelly drainfield to ruin outdoor activity. The following Q&A offers advice about preserving your drainfield to provide you with years of uninterrupted service.

What is a drainfield?

There are two main parts to a basic septic system: the septic tank and the drainfield.  A conventional drainfield is an arrangement of perforated pipes or chambers buried underground that channel pretreated wastewater (effluent) from the septic tank out over a large area of the soil for final treatment.  A reserve drainfield, required by many states, is an area on the property that is suitable for a new drainfield system should the current drainfield fail.

How does a drainfield work?

The drainfield is where the real treatment of the wastewater occurs. As the effluent slowly moves through the soil, the drainfield acts as a natural filter by absorbing the organic materials, reducing or removing bacteria and viruses, and removing some nutrients. The naturally purified water is then moved to the groundwater or evaporates from the soil.

What is a drainfield’s life expectancy?

Drainfields should last at least 25 to 30 years or more if they are designed, installed and maintained correctly, according to Zane Satterfield, engineering scientist with the National Environmental Services Center.  What causes a drainfield to fail?  The two most common causes of drainfield failure are hydraulic and biological overloading.

Hydraulic overloading occurs when too much water is sent to an under-designed system while too much organic matter in the effluent causes biological overloading.

However, there are many and varied causes for drainfield failure, including,

• not maintaining your septic tank;

• solids from the septic system clogging the small holes in the drainfield pipes;

• additives because they can damage the system by breaking up the sludge and scum

  layers, causing them to flush out of the tank and clog the drainfield;

• flushing fats, oils, greases, chemicals, solvents, paint and other improper substances

  down the drain;

• improper drainfield siting, design, construction;

• overuse of water-generating appliances;

• garbage disposals because the extra solids introduced into the tank can increase the  

  accumulation of sludge by more than 50 percent

• excessive rainfall;

• downspouts, gutters, meds online without prescription basement sump pump drains and other rainwater or surface

   water drainage systems that divert water over the drainfield;

• tree roots that interfere with the drainlines;

• vehicles driving over the drainfield and cracking the pipes, and

• age of the system.

How can I tell if my drainfield is failing?

The most obvious sign of drainfield failure is surfacing effluent.  If the soil can no longer absorb the effluent, it will either rise to the ground surface and pool or, if the drainfield isn’t flat, it will ‘blow out’ the end of the last trench. You might also notice muddy soil around your septic system or in your basement, toilet or sink back-ups when you flush or do laundry, or strips of bright green grass growing over the drainfield.

Can I drive on, pave over, or build a structure on my drainfield?

No. These activities can cause the soil to compact, exposing system components and

possibly untreated sewage to the ground surface.  Paving over all or a portion of a drainfield may prevent air from getting into the soil, impairing the treatment process, as well as limiting access for repairs, maintenance, or inspection. 

What can be planted over or near a drainfield?

The best covering for your drainfield is grass because it helps to remove water and

nutrients from the soil and helps to prevent soil erosion.  Some people may choose to landscape their drainfield because of limited space or because they think it is an eyesore.  The challenge is to find plants that will meet your landscaping needs but not clog the drain pipes.  Thurston County, Washington, offers the following planting tips:

- The deep roots of some vegetables may damage the drainfield pipes as can digging

   and rototilling the soil to prepare it for planting vegetables. Hand cultivate only.

- Parts of the system may be only six inches under the surface. Adding two to three

  inches of topsoil to the drainfield should be fine but more than that could prohibit the

  exchange of air and water, decreasing the drainfield’s ability to treat the wastewater.

- Plants should be low in maintenance and water needs and should be shallow rooted

- Base your plant selection on the amount of sunlight the area receives and the flowers    

  need.

- For wildflower seeds, remove grass in small areas (six inches in diameter) and sow   the seed in those areas. Keep the grass out of the area until the seed has germinated and is large enough to compete with the grass.  Trees or shrubs should not be planted within 25 feet of the drainfield, according to the North Carolina State University, because their roots could clog or damage the drain lines.

A properly operating drainfield will not contaminate the soil with disease-causing organisms, but it is very difficult to determine if a field is operating as it should; therefore, vegetables should not be planted over the drainfield. In addition,

vegetables need watering, and excess water in the soil reduces its ability to treat the wastewater.

How can I maintain my drainfield?

Maintenance begins with water use and waste disposal habits. The drainfield does not have an unlimited capacity, so the more water you use, the greater the likelihood of

problems with the drainfield.  Water conservation practices can help reduce the amount of wastewater generated in the home.

“The drainfield should be inspected, but typically, it is overlooked when it comes to onsite system inspection and maintenance unless there are obvious signs of failure or an inspection is required for property transfer,” Satterfield says.  “Repair and rejuvenation can be costly, so it is a good idea to maintain your drainfield so small problems can be taken care of before they become bigger problems.”

When is the best time to inspect my drainfield?

“Drainfield inspections are most often performed at the same time a septic tank is being inspected or pumped because the outlet of the tank is easier to identify, which

makes it easier to locate the piping to the drainfield,” explains Satterfield. “This enables the inspector to watch the outlet pipe when the septic tank is pumped to see if any water drains back into the tank from the drainfield.”

What happens during a drainfield inspection?

“Inspecting a drainfield is not as straight forward as inspecting a septic tank,” explains Craig Mains, engineering scientist, NESC. “Because the drainfield is buried, it is difficult to visually determine its condition. If there are no visible problems, the drainfield inspection consists mostly of locating the drainfield area and checking the soils to make sure the system is designed and installed correctly.”

The soil is checked with a soil probe, Mains further explains, which comes in different shapes, sizes, and materials.  “The probe helps determine the length of the drainfield

and the length and width of its trenches. Checking each of these parameters ensures the proper amount of drainfield area is present. 

“The probe is pushed into the ground until it touches the top of the drainfield pipe. Once the pipe is located, the inspector inserts a flag or marker, takes a few steps back, and repeats the procedures.  “The inspector may also want to check the

trench lines for biomat growth.” 

What is a biomat?

A biomat is the black, jelly-like layer that forms along the bottom and sidewalls of the

drainfield trench. It is caused by the bacterial growth that develops beneath the distribution lines.  Biomats tend to restrict the flow of effluent through the drainfield but are crucial because they filter out viruses and pathogens.  Biomat formation cannot, and should not, be prevented, but septic tank filters, proper organic loading, and proper maintenance of the septic tank can slow the rate at which it forms.

Resources:

City of Columbia Health Department. Columbia, Missouri. “Septic Tank and Drainfield Maintenance.” Download at: www.gocolumbiamo.com/Health/Wastewater_Systems/

septic_systems.php

Mains, Craig, Zane Satterfield. Interviews with author in August 2009.

National Environmental Services Center. Pipeline.  “Drainfield Rehabilitation.” Winter 2005. Volume 16, Number 1.

North Carolina State University. “Soil Facts: Septic Systems and Their Maintenance.” Download at: www.soil.ncsu.edu/publications/Soilfacts/AG-439-13/#What_Maintenance_Is_Needed

 Ibid. “Soil Facts: Why Do Septic Systems Fail?” Download at: www.soil.ncsu.edu/publications/Soilfacts/AG-439-44/ag439_44.pdf

Public Health and Social Services, Thurston County,

Washington. “Landscape your Drainfield.” Download at:

www.soil.ncsu.edu/publications/Soilfacts/AG-439-

44/ag439_44.pdf

U.S. Environmental Protection Agency, “A Homeowner’s

Guide to Septic Systems.” Download at:

www.epa.gov/owm/septic/pubs/homeowner_guide_long.pdf

Virginia Cooperative Extension. “Planting on Your Septic

Drain Field.” Download at: pubs.ext.vt.edu/426/426-617/426-617.html

The U.S. Environmental Protection Agency estimates that there are more than 40,000 sanitary sewer overflows each year, which cause serious water quality issues.  These can contaminate water sources, cause extensive property damage and threaten public health.  Forty-seven percent of overflows are caused by fats, oils and grease clogging up the system.

With this being such a problem, we all have to do our part to keep the grease from entering our sewer and storm-water systems.  Some of the most common sources for the fats, oils and grease are dishwashers, compartment sinks, mop sinks, floor drains, floor sinks, trough and trench drains and grease being poured down drains.

Grease builds up when one person thinks that one person medicine online without prescription won’t be a problem.  If everyone has that thought process and everyone dumps fats, oils and grease down drains, this will cause blockages and overflows, which not only harm humans and the environment but require many man-hours to repair.

We as home, restaurant and business owners can help by not putting grease down the drain or pouring it in ditches.  We have to all pay more attention and be responsible for keeping the environment clean and help keep the sewer lines free and clear of grease buildup

discharge regulations released by the USEPA.

This may have a significant impact on all sewage

dischargers, large and small (homeowners) in the

near future.  Remember, if you have any questions,

just let me know. 

ENVIRONMENTAL PROTECTION AGENCY
 
[FRL-9097-8; OW-2009-0921]
 
 
Draft 2009 Update Aquatic Life Ambient Water Quality Criteria for 
Ammonia--Freshwater
 
AGENCY: Environmental Protection Agency (EPA).
 
ACTION: Notice of availability of draft criteria and request for 
scientific views.
 
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
 
SUMMARY: Pursuant to section 304(a) of the Clean Water Act (CWA), the 
Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) is announcing the availability of 
draft national recommended water quality criteria for ammonia for the 
protection of aquatic life. The draft criteria are based on EPA's 
Guidelines for Deriving Numerical National Water Quality Criteria for 
the Protection of Aquatic Organisms and Their Uses (1985), (EPA/R-85-
100). EPA's recommended section 304(a) water quality criteria provide 
guidance to States and authorized tribes in adopting water quality 
standards for protecting aquatic life and human health and provide 
guidance to EPA for promulgating Federal regulations under CWA section 
303(c), when such action is necessary.
 
DATES: Scientific views must be received on or before March 1, 2010. 
Comments postmarked after this date may not be considered.
 
ADDRESSES: Submit your scientific views, identified by Docket ID No. 
EPA-HQ-OW-2009- 0921, by one of the following methods:
     http://www.regulations.gov: Follow the on-line 
instructions for submitting comments.
     E-mail: OW-Docket@epa.gov.
     Mail: U.S. Environmental Protection Agency; EPA Docket 
Center (EPA/DC) Water Docket, MC 28221T; 1200 Pennsylvania Avenue, NW., 
Washington, DC 20460.
     Hand Delivery: EPA Docket Center, 1301 Constitution Ave, 
NW., EPA West, Room 3334, Washington DC. Such deliveries are only 
accepted during the Docket's normal hours of operation, and special 
arrangements should be made for deliveries of boxed information.
    Instructions: Direct your comments to Docket ID No. EPA-HQ-OW-2009-
0921. EPA's policy is that all comments received will be included in 
the public docket without change and may be made available online at 
http://www.regulations.gov, including any personal information 
provided, unless the comment includes information claimed to be 
Confidential Business Information (CBI) or other information whose 
disclosure is restricted by statute. Do not submit information that you 
consider to be CBI or otherwise protected through http://
www.regulations.gov or e-mail. The http://www.regulations.gov Web site 
is an ``anonymous access'' system, which means EPA will not know your 
identity or contact information unless you provide it in the body of 
your comment. If you send an e-mail comment directly to EPA without 
going through http://www.regulations.gov your e-mail address will be 
automatically captured and included as part of the comment that is 
placed in the public docket and made available on the Internet. If you 
submit an electronic comment, EPA recommends that you include your name 
and other contact information in the body of your comment and with any 
disk or CD-ROM you submit. If EPA cannot read your comment due to 
technical difficulties and cannot contact you for clarification, EPA 
may not be able to consider your comment. Electronic files should avoid 
the use of special characters, any form of encryption, and be free of 
any defects or viruses. For additional information about EPA's public 
docket visit the EPA Docket Center homepage at http://www.epa.gov/
epahome/dockets.htm.
    Docket: All documents in the docket are listed in the http://
www.regulations.gov index. Although listed in the index, some 
information is not publicly available, e.g., CBI or other information 
whose disclosure is restricted by statute. Certain other material, such 
as copyrighted material, will be publicly available only in hard copy. 
Publicly available docket materials are available either electronically 
in http://www.regulations.gov or in hard copy at the Office of Water 
Docket/EPA/DC, 1301 Constitution Ave, NW., EPA West, Room 3334, 
Washington DC. This Docket Facility is open from 8:30 a.m. until 4:30 
p.m., EST, Monday through Friday, excluding legal holidays. The 
telephone number for the Public Reading Room is (202) 566-1744, and the 
telephone number for the Office of Water Docket is (202) 566-2426.
 
FOR FURTHER INFORMATION CONTACT: Lisa Huff, Health and Ecological 
Criteria Division (4304T), U.S. EPA, 1200 Pennsylvania Ave., NW., 
Washington, DC 20460; (202) 566-0787; huff.lisa@epa.gov.
 
SUPPLEMENTARY INFORMATION:
 
I. What Are Water Quality Criteria?
 
    Water quality criteria are either narrative descriptions of water 
quality or scientifically derived numeric values that protect aquatic 
life or human health from the deleterious effects of pollutants in 
ambient water.
    Section 304(a)(1) of the Clean Water Act requires EPA to develop 
and publish and, from time to time, revise, criteria for water quality 
accurately reflecting the latest scientific knowledge. Water quality 
criteria developed under section 304(a) are based solely on data and 
scientific judgments on the relationship between pollutant 
concentrations and environmental and human health effects. Section 
304(a) criteria do not reflect consideration of economic impacts or the 
technological feasibility of meeting pollutant concentrations in 
ambient water.
    Section 304(a) criteria provide guidance to States and authorized 
tribes in adopting water quality standards that ultimately provide a 
basis for controlling discharges or releases of pollutants. The 
criteria also provide guidance to EPA when promulgating Federal 
regulations under section 303(c) when such action is necessary. Under 
the CWA and its implementing regulations, States and authorized tribes 
are to adopt water quality criteria to protect designated uses (e.g., 
public water supply, aquatic life, recreational use, or industrial 
use). EPA's recommended water quality criteria do not substitute for 
the CWA or regulations, nor are they regulations themselves. Thus, 
EPA's recommended criteria do not impose legally binding requirements. 
States and authorized tribes have the discretion to adopt, where 
appropriate, other scientifically
 
[[Page 69087]]
 
defensible water quality criteria that differ from these 
recommendations.
 
II. What Are the Ammonia Criteria?
 
    EPA is today publishing draft national recommended water quality 
criteria (NRWQC) for ammonia for protecting aquatic life. These draft 
criteria updates are based on EPA's Guidelines for Deriving Numerical 
National Water Quality Criteria for the Protection of Aquatic Organisms 
and Their Uses (1985), (EPA/R-85-100). These Guidelines describe the 
Agency's current approach for deriving national recommended water 
quality criteria to protect aquatic life. Toxicity data and other 
information on the effects of ammonia were obtained from reliable 
sources and subjected to both internal and external scientific peer 
review. The NRWQC for ammonia saltwater are not being updated at this 
time.
    Freshwater: Freshwater aquatic organisms and their uses should not 
be affected unacceptably if--
    1. The one-hour average concentration of total ammonia nitrogen (in 
mg N/L) does not exceed, more than once every three years on the 
average, the CMC (acute criterion), which is dependent on the aquatic 
organisms present.
    2A. The thirty-day average concentration of total ammonia nitrogen 
(in mg N/L) does not exceed, more than once every three years on the 
average, the CCC (chronic criterion), which is dependent on the aquatic 
organisms present.
    2B. In addition, the highest four-day average within the 30-day 
period should not exceed 2.5 times the CCC.
    The acute and chronic criteria concentrations are expressed as 
functions of temperature and pH, such that values differ across sites, 
and differ over time within a site. See draft criteria document (pp. 
34-38) for actual equations describing this function. As temperature 
decreases, invertebrates, but not fish, become less sensitive to 
ammonia, and below a particular temperature threshold, fish become the 
most sensitive genera.
    Acute Criteria: At pH=8, where freshwater mussels are present, the 
criterion concentration ranges from 1.90 mg N/L at 30[deg] C to 9.81 mg 
N/L at 0[deg] C. At pH=8, where freshwater mussels are absent the 
criterion concentration ranges from 3.29 mg N/L at 30[deg] C to 9.99 mg 
N/L at 0[deg] C.
    Chronic Criteria: At pH=8, where freshwater mussels are present, 
irrespective of whether fish early life stages (ELS) are present or 
absent, the criterion ranges from 0.186 mg N/L at 30[deg] C to 0.817 mg 
N/L at 0[deg] C. When freshwater mussels are absent, the values range 
from 1.33 mg N/L at 30[deg] C to 2.32 mg N/L at 0[deg] C at times when 
fish ELS are present, and from 1.33 mg N/L at 30[deg] C to 5.87 mg N/L 
at 0[deg] C at times when fish ELS are absent.
 
------------------------------------------------------------------------
                                 Draft 2009 ammonia      Current 1999
                                 criteria (at pH 8    criteria (at pH 8
                                   and 25[deg] C)       and 25[deg] C)
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Acute.........................  2.9 mg N/L mussels present. 5.6 mg N/L salmon  present.   
                                         5.0 mg N/L mussels absent.
Chronic.......................  0.26 mg N/L mussels  1.2 mg N/L fish
                                 present.  early life stages present. 1.8 mg N/L mussels absent.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
 
 
    Note: These criteria values are appropriate at the standard 
normalized pH and temperature; the criteria values are a function of 
the variability of pH and temperature.
 
    The water quality criteria for ammonia saltwater are not being 
updated at this time.
 
III. What is the Relationship Between the Water Quality Criteria and 
State or Tribal Water Quality Standards?
 
    As part of the water quality standards triennial review process 
defined in Section 303(c)(1) of the CWA, the States and authorized 
Tribes are responsible for maintaining and revising water quality 
standards. Water quality standards consist of three principal elements: 
designated uses, water quality criteria to protect those uses, and 
antidegradation requirements, providing for protection of existing 
water uses and limitations on degradation of high quality waters. 
Section 303(c)(1) requires States and authorized Tribes to review and 
modify, if appropriate, their water quality standards at least once 
every three years.
    States and authorized Tribes must adopt water quality criteria that 
protect designated uses. States may develop their criteria based on 
EPA's recommended section 304(a) water quality criteria or other 
scientifically defensible methods. A State's criteria must contain 
sufficient parameters or constituents to protect the designated uses. 
Consistent with 40 CFR 131.21, new or revised water quality criteria 
adopted into law by States and authorized Tribes on or after May 30, 
2000 are in effect for CWA purposes only after EPA approval.
 
IV. Where Can I Find More Information About Water Quality Criteria and 
Water Quality Standards?
 
    For more information about water quality criteria and Water Quality 
Standards refer to the following: Water Quality Standards Handbook (EPA 
823-B94-005a); Advanced Notice of Proposed Rule Making (ANPRM), 
(63FR36742); Water Quality Criteria and Standards Plan--Priorities for 
the Future (EPA 822-R-98-003); Guidelines and Methodologies Used in the 
Preparation of Health Effects Assessment Chapters of the Consent Decree 
Water Criteria Documents (45FR79347); Methodology for Deriving Ambient 
Water Quality Criteria for the Protection of Human Health (2000), EPA-
822-B-00-004); Guidelines for Deriving Numerical National Water Quality 
Criteria for the Protection of Aquatic Organisms and Their Uses (EPA 
822/R-85-100); National Strategy for the Development of Regional 
Nutrient Criteria (EPA 822-R-98-002); and EPA Review and Approval of 
State and Tribal Water Quality Standards (65FR24641).
    You can find these publications through EPA's National Service 
Center for Environmental Publications (NSCEP, previously NCEPI) or on 
the Office of Science and Technology's Home-page (http://www.epa.gov/
waterscience).
 
    Dated: December 23, 2009.
Peter S. Silva,
Assistant Administrator for Water.
[FR Doc. E9-30992 Filed 12-29-09; 8:45 am]
 
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Do you think about where the water goes when you flush a toilet?

What you flush affects the streams and rivers in our local watersheds, which is why people should be cognizant of what goes down the drain, especially during this time of year.

With the onset of the holiday season, when families are visiting one another and creating more organic and household waste, think about what your household sends to a wastewater treatment plant on a daily basis. And more guests only increase the gallons sent to a treatment plant.

When the wastewater flushed from toilets and drained from household sinks, washing machines and dishwashers leaves the home, it flows through your community’s sanitary sewer system to a wastewater treatment facility. The wastewater is treated by the facility to reduce and remove pollutants.

Wastewater treatment facilities are designed to treat organic waste, not hazardous chemicals.  You can help by not putting household grease (meat fats, cooking oil, butter and margarine), diapers or other personal products down drains. These materials clog pipes and cause sewage to overflow in homes, yards and public areas.

Don’t pour household products such as cleansers, beauty products, medicine, auto fluids, paint and lawn-care products down the drain.  Used motor oil can diminish the effectiveness of the treatment process and could allow the contaminants to be discharged into waterways.

Other major problems include infiltration of rainwater through old, decaying sewer lines and cracks around manhole covers, plus tree roots entering old sewer lines, which cause the treatment process to work harder than it should during wet weather.  When this process occurs, it leads to a blockage, causing an overflow that is harmful to both health and property. 

What is important to note is that households that have on-site sewage treatment systems, such as septic tanks and aerobic treatment units, are much more susceptible to these types of problems than municipal systems.  It is very important to follow these suggestions, especially during high use times, to insure that your system has the best opportunity to operate correctly. 

affect source water protection?

prescription drugs without a prescription 0in 0pt; mso-layout-grid-align: none;”>By Zane Satterfield, PE

NESC Engineering Scientist

This article is from Small Flows Magazine, Fall/Winter 2008, Vol. 9, No.2

remember, if you have any questions about this article or any septic tank or wastewater treatment questions, just write and ask me.

With all the attention being given to the gasoline stations, farming operations, city

sewage treatment plants, storage tanks, and old 55-gallon drums with who knows what in them, we’ve lost sight of onsite septic systems.  Currently, onsite septic system maintenance is an afterthought—if it’s thought about at all.  That’s why the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) wants system owners to be aware of the

existing and possible pollution problem that a poorly maintained onsite system can, and does, cause.

Why don’t we just construct centralized sewer systems for everyone?  Simply, we cannot afford it.  It costs too much to install centralized systems for everyone or

even the majority of the people.  And the reasons are many.  For example, the distance to nearest sewage plant may be several miles and installing that much piping may blow an already tight budget.  Terrain or an otherwise rural landscape also may make central sewering difficult if not impossible.  Finally, there may not be enough homes in a particular area to justify the expense.  Onsite systems are here to stay, but how

do we keep them from polluting our source water?

First, it is important to note that a properly designed, installed, and maintained onsite

sewage system may treat sewage (including sewage with pharmaceuticals in it) better than a centralized system because of the detention time.  While it may be difficult to ensure a good design, it’s not impossible.  Second, we need to make sure that the designers and permit agencies know about all of the onsite alternatives available—especially that some types of systems will not work in certain areas.  A system’s design should be site specific.  It doesn’t have to take in all of the possible things that could go wrong, but it doesn’t hurt to build in some safety factors.  The designers need to be involved during the installation as well as the owners.  The installers can be educated about alternative designs, and what to look for during construction/

installation that might cause problems down the road, such as a drainage system that directs water away from the onsite system.   Also, the installer needs to coordinate with the designer, permit agency, and homeowner.  Remember, the homeowner holds the purse strings—they pay the bill, and they are the client.

Finally, there is the homeowner, the hardest in the group to educate, but not impossible.  What is the best way to educate homeowners?  Homeowner education is a never-ending  process and needs to be addressed at all levels from first-time homebuyers to new construction to older homes.  Start the education early when the

homeowner buys or builds a home.  The need for on-going maintenance really needs to be stressed.  Also water conservation in general can help the septic system. Low flow fixtures or WaterSense labeled fixtures throughout the house will save money and wear and tear on septic systems.

Don’t forget about educating that what goes down the drain can be a big contributor of septic system malfunctions.  For example, garbage disposals should be used as little as possible. Composting food scraps is a better way to deal with them, and they then can be reused in the garden.  Water softeners should be adjusted so that the backwash cycle occurs less often.  Also, septic system owners should be advised to only use septic safe cleaners and detergents.  And, as always, recommend that regular septic system maintenance such as having the tank pumped regularly. If the system has an effluent filter, advise that it be cleaned on a regular basis as well. If there is a

garage, the floor drains should go into a grease trap before the septic system or even a separate system if possible.  A great way to educate the homeowners is through the homeowner’s children.  This can be done in the schools using coloring books, cartoons, and activities.

What if the message still doesn’t get through, and septic systems are failing and

polluting the waters?  Enforcement should be carried out using existing rules and regulations.  The enforcement may be falling short because many county sanitarians

or sewage enforcement officers are overworked and underpaid, and do not have

the time.  If it looks like the existing rules are not catching all the problems, then new rules and regulations need to be adopted through the county or township level. Another approach might be a decentralized management system where the homeowner would pay a monthly sewage bill to a public service district to inspect

and maintain the onsite septic system.

References:

Jesperson, Kathy. Spring/Summer, 2008. “Save the

Source, Save Some Money,” Small Flows, Volume 9,

Number1. National Environmental Services Center:

Morgantown, WV.

Toilets use more water in the home than any other appliance or fixture totaling approximately 30 percent of residential indoor water consumption. As a result of this usage, toilets often leak contributing to major water loss as well.

Designed for water conservation, high- efficiency toilets (HETs) have been defined by the plumbing industry and the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) as those that use an average of 20 percent less water per flush than the industry standard of 1.6 gallons (or, 1.28 gallons). Using a high-efficiency unit (in place of 1.6 gallon flush units) can save up to 8,760 gallons of water each year for a family of four with average daily flushes of six each. In municipalities like Washington D.C., this roughly translates to a water/sewer usage annual savings of $50.00. Savings will be greater in climates were water is in shorter supply.
 
There are four (4) types of water efficient toilet systems currently available.

Gravity Fed Single- Flush Toilets
Gravity fed single- flush toilets operate the same way as any standard toilet, however, they use less total capacity per flush. Typical flush capacities that are available for these models are 1.1 and 1.28 gallons.

Cheap Cialis Online Without Prescription style=”line-height: normal; margin: 0in 0in 10pt; mso-margin-top-alt: auto; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto;”>Dual-Flush Toilets
Designed for light and heavy flushes, dual-flush toilets tend to average less than 1.2 gallons per flush. They meet HET criteria of 1.28 gallons per flush or less (HET criteria for dual- flush toilets identifies the effective flush volume as the average of one high flush and two low flushes). Dual- flush models are available from many well-known manufacturers with light flush capacities from 0.8 to 1.1 gallons and heavy flush capacities from 1.3 to 1.6 gallons per flush. These toilets typically operate with a handle that can move up or down, or a two-button system. One direction or button will activate the lower flow flush, while the other will activate the higher flow flush.

Pressure Assist Toilets
Pressure assist, or pressurized tank, toilets are another high- performance, low-  consumption alternative. These toilets use either water line pressure or a device in the tank to create additional force from air pressure to flush the toilet. The device in the tank could either be a storage device with compressed air that would require replacement or a tank that creates pressure when the tank is being filled. These toilets typically average 1.1 to 1.2 gallons per flush. Some pressure assist systems move a greater volume of water at a significantly lesser volume of sound.

Power Assist Toilets
Power assist toilets operate using a pump to force water down at a higher velocity than gravity toilets. Power assist toilets require a 120-V power source to operate the small fractional horsepower pump. Typical flush volumes are between 1.0 and 1.3 gallons per flush and dual-flush models are also available.

Companies that produce these types of products, such as Niagara conservation , and the Chicago faucet company, will be exhibiting at the annual WaterEC conference.

All of these systems are strong alternatives that offer attractive cost savings and contribute to our conservation efforts. For additional information please search our archives at www.waterefficiency.net.

Let me hear your comments and remember if you have any water or sewage treatment  questions,  just let me know.

Quick—what wastes more clean drinking water than a dripping faucet? No, the answer is not two dripping faucets. The answer is water-powered backup sump pumps! A dripping faucet wastes between 600 and 2,000 gallons per year (based on 35 and 60 drips per minute, respectively), but a water-powered sump pump (used to pump rainwater out of a basement sump pit), wastes between 10,000 and 32,000 gallons of our precious fresh drinking water per year! 

Water conservation is becoming more of an issue every day. The planet is in the midst of what the United Nations is calling a “water crisis,” as the supply of fresh drinking water dwindles. More than half of the world’s population will be living with water shortages, depleted fisheries, and polluted coastlines within 50 years, warns a recently published United Nations report.

Illinois Senator Dick Durbin has just introduced legislation calling for the United States to set a goal of expanding access to clean drinking water to an additional 100 million people around the world.  “The global water crisis is a quiet killer,” said Durbin, in a speech hours before introducing the bill. “In the developing world, more than 5,000 children die every day from easily preventable water-related illnesses.”

As the world grapples with a falling global economy, our water crisis can’t take a back seat. In fact, we need to work doubly hard, to conserve and maximize fresh drinking water.  You still hear it from pundits and critics that argue that the world is two-thirds water.  They say, “So, what’s the big deal?” The big deal is out of all that water, only 1% is fresh drinking water. Lakes, rivers, and groundwater account for about 1% of the world’s potentially usable freshwater.  Brita Water puts it this way: If the entire world’s water fit into a gallon jug, the fresh water available for us to use would equal only about one tablespoon.

And this isn’t just a problem for foreign countries—many areas of the United States experience droughts. In fact, at least 36 states are projecting water shortages between now and 2013, according to the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA). A number of states have already enacted water use restrictions on everything from watering our lawn to washing our car.  To make matters worse, thousands of homeowners have blindly installed water-powered backup sump pumps that actually waste 500 to 600 gallons of fresh drinking water per hour, to pump out sump pit water!

During rainstorms, groundwater underneath people’s basements builds up, and is funneled into basins called “sump pits.” From there, this dirty water is pumped outside the house. The problem occurs when the power goes out and the primary sump pump (that’s plugged into the wall) no longer works. That’s when people turn to their water-powered sump pump to pump the rising water out of their sump pit before it overflows—flooding and potentially creating heavy damage to a homeowner’s basement.

These wasteful pumps operate by taking the energy in municipal-supplied water at full pressure, and run it through a venturi device, positioned on the bottom of the sump pit in a basement. They connect directly to the fresh drinking water supply line of a house, or, in some circumstances, homeowners connect the pump with a rubber garden hose to their kitchen faucet. When the pump is activated, clean, fresh drinking water is released into the sump pit. Most of these models then pull up 1 gallon of wastewater for each gallon of fresh water used. Then, both the fresh water and the wastewater are dumped out onto the lawn or into the sewer system that already has an overflow of stormwater in it.

Depending on how often a water–powered sump pump is activated to pump rainwater out of a basement sump pit, it can waste between 10,000 and 32,000 gallons of fresh drinking water per year!   There are no official records on how many of these water-powered pumps are in operation in the US—estimates range from 20,000 to 100,000 units. If we split the difference and say 60,000, and on average each one wastes 15,000 gallons per year, that’s 90 million gallons of water wasted—90 million gallons!

The EPA says that the average person must consume 2.5 quarts of water per day to maintain health, which equals 228 gallons per year. If you take 90 million gallons of water wasted, divided by 228, that equals 394,736 people. That’s enough fresh drinking water to supply a city the size of Minneapolis each year!

Not only do they waste precious drinking water, cheap prescription drugs without prescription they pose a serious health risk to the homeowner. Since all water-powered pumps must be connected directly to the water supply, they must have backflow protection—unfortunately, many are installed without this. The problem is, in times of heavy demand, when there’s a low-pressure situation, contaminated water may be sucked back into the fresh water drinking supply, causing a substantial health risk.

In the December 2008 edition of the PHCC Connection (plumbing-heating-cooling contractors), PHCC president Joe Schmitt alerted contractors to this fact—and explained how backflow and RPZ devices (used to stop contaminated material from flowing back into the fresh water supply) are critical to public health. “A mistake (installing backflow devices) could take a life, a family, or the whole neighborhood,” he said.

So, why pour fresh drinking water down the sewer and possibly risk your family’s life?

There’s no need to do so. Battery-powered backup sump pumps have been readily available for over 30 years. They’re reliable, don’t waste water, and pose no health risk. Battery-powered pumps range from small add-on units, to totally independent computerized monitoring systems that can test themselves, as well as connect to security systems to alert the homeowner of a flood situation. With so many options available in battery-powered systems, it seems that there really is no need for water-powered sump pumps.

So what can be done? If you’re a city water official, or take part in local government, follow the lead of Medina, OH. They have enacted a city ordinance, banning the installation of water-powered sump pumps. This is a practice that should be modeled across the country, and you can help by proposing the same type of legislation in your community.

As an individual what can you do? I’m asking everyone to participate in the following calls-to-action:

• Contact local health departments and inform them about the risks associated with water-powered sump pumps, so that they can address the health issues that contaminated water can have on the community.
• Contact and work with State and Federal legislators to ban the use of water- powered sump pumps. 
• Spread the word to plumbers and contractors, to no longer install water-powered sump pumps in new home construction or remodeling projects.
• Spread the word to contractors that perform free water audits for their customers. They should check to see if a water-powered sump pump is installed. If it is, they should warn the homeowner of the drawbacks associated with water-powered sump pumps. 
• Save water by installing a battery backup sump pump.

Getting the word out is crucial, as these pumps are readily available at many home improvement stores and are offered by a number of independent companies that produce and market water-powered sump pumps direct to homeowners. In fact—there are at least nine companies currently offering water-powered pumps at hundreds of outlets nationwide.

This is an issue that needs to be publicized, as the public is just not educated to understand how detrimental these pumps are to our environment, and to their own health.

As concerned individuals dedicated to helping conserve our water supplies, we should be extremely concerned about this issue and do everything we can to expose this product and have it removed from our store shelves.     

Author’s Bio: Alan Schulman is the President and CEO of Glentronics I

Remember, if you have any questions about this article or any sewage treatment questions,  just let me know.

“How Does the Maintenance of Onsite Spptic Systems Affect Source Water Protection?   by Zane Satterfield

With all the attention being given to the gasoline stations, farming operations, city sewage treatment plants, storage tanks, and old 55-gallon drums with who knows what in them, we’ve lost sight of onsite septic systems. Currently, onsite septic system maintenance is an afterthought—if it’s thought about at all. That’s why the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) wants system owners to be aware of the existing and possible pollution problem that a poorly maintained onsite system can, and does, cause.

Why don’t we just construct centralized sewer systems for everyone? Simply, we cannot afford it. It costs too much to install centralized systems for everyone or even the majority of the people. And the reasons are many. For example, the distance to nearest sewage plant may be several miles and installing that much piping may blow an already tight budget. Terrain or an otherwise rural landscape also may make central sewering difficult if not impossible. Finally, there may not be enough homes in a particular area to justify the expense. Onsite systems are here to stay, but how

do we keep them from polluting our source water?

First, it is important to note that a properly designed, installed, and maintained onsite sewage system may treat sewage (including sewage with Cheap Viagra pills pharmaceuticals in it) better than a centralized system because of the detention time. While it may be difficult to ensure a good design, it’s not impossible.  Second, we need to make sure that the designers and permit agencies know about all of the onsite alternatives available—especially that some types of systems will not work in certain areas. A system’s design should be site specific.  It doesn’t have to take in all of the possible things that could go wrong, but it doesn’t hurt to build in some safety factors. The designers need to be involved during the installation as well as the owners.

The installers can be educated about alternative designs, and what to look for during construction/installation that might cause problems down the road, such as a drainage system that directs water away from the onsite system. Also, the installer needs to coordinate with the designer, permit agency, and homeowner. Remember, the homeowner holds the purse strings—they pay the bill, and they are the client.

Finally, there is the homeowner, the hardest in the group to educate, but not impossible. What is the best way to educate homeowners?  Homeowner education is a never-ending process and needs to be addressed at all levels from first-time homebuyers to new construction to older homes. Start the education early when the homeowner buys or builds a home. The need for on-going maintenance really needs to be stressed. Also water conservation in general can help the septic system. Low flow fixtures or WaterSense labeled fixtures throughout the house will save money and wear and tear on septic systems.  Don’t forget about educating that what goes down the drain can be a big contributor of septic system malfunctions. For example, garbage disposals should be used as little as possible. Composting food scraps is a better way to deal with them, and they then can be reused in the garden.  Water softeners should be adjusted so that the backwash cycle occurs less often. Also, septic system owners should be advised to only use septic safe cleaners and detergents. And, as always, recommend that regular septic system maintenance such as having the tank pumped regularly. If the system has an effluent filter, advise that it be cleaned on a regular basis as well. If there is a garage, the floor drains should go into a grease trap before the septic system or even a separate system if possible.  A great way to educate the homeowners is through the homeowner’s children. This can be done in the schools using coloring books, cartoons, and activities.  What if the message still doesn’t get through, and septic systems are failing and polluting the waters?

Enforcement should be carried out using existing rules and regulations. The enforcement may be falling short because many county sanitarians or sewage enforcement officers are overworked and underpaid, and do not have the time. If it looks like the existing rules are not catching all the problems, then new rules and regulations need to be adopted through the county or township level. Another approach might be a decentralized management system where the homeowner would pay a monthly sewage bill to a public service district to inspect and maintain the onsite septic system.

References:

Jesperson, Kathy. Spring/Summer, 2008. “Save the Source, Save Some Money,” Small Flows, Volume 9, Number1. National Environmental Services Center: Morgantown, WV.